Adrian's Rants

Forget About the War


It may be difficult to believe, but for fall 2007, designers weren’t unified in delivering a single directional look. Instead, it was all about feeling. Tactical feeling, that is.

After seasons of exaggerated silhouettes and inflated volumes, designers found common ground in experimenting with please-touch-me materials ranging from PVC to plumage to sequins, sometimes all in a single wave. From Prada’s definitive shaggy chic to graphic metal studs at Givenchy, it seems as though designers are embracing experimentation through a new lens. Even when some explored literal retro-ism, like at Louis Vuitton and Gucci, cashmere knits were replaced with croc belted mohair sweaters and straight cut skirts were updated in red lame. Miuccia turns shaggy carpets into super chic looks at Prada.

Miccuia offered up the “simple but strange” argument, which seems to best illustrate the source of this paradigm shift. It’s an instinctive progression after we’ve widened hips, waists, and limbs to hindering proportions. And, to answer the question on everyone’s lips, where do you go after spring’s literal futurism? Well - you scrap the kitsch and proceed where futurism excelled - to texture and beyond.

Ironically, the most interesting part is not the potpourri of materials designers have opted for, but rather the slew of conspiracy-like theories fashion editors have conjured up to explain fall’s trends. Like the inescapable presence of spring’s sci-fi liaisons, so to is rhetoric suggesting political events are fuelling designers into a “design and protect” mentality. Think funnel neck coats at YSL and war scarves at Balenciaga. More often than not, such long nuances go to humdrum lengths correlating metallic studded sheaths to post 9/11 events, often to the point of concluding designers are more skilled in the art of environmental scanning than design.


Furry meets shiny meets smooth meets studded…all at Louis Vuitton.

And while designers do have an uncanny knack to pick up moods in the air, the fall 2007 shows were not about Bush at war or Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth. In fact, any suggestion that the mood we are seeing is a result of the political arena is an antiquated paradigm; last year’s tools for decoding this year’s messages. If I was wrong, would we have revisited ladylike dressing in knee-deep war years at the beginning of the noughties?

In an industry that is unswervingly yearning to prove its IQ, it seems that we’ve superseded reality in favour of drama. Not surprising. And frankly, neither is the fact that once again, Miuccia has single-handedly nailed the season’s catchphrase. Simple but strange.

Photos: Style.com

03.13.07 | adrian

Similar Posts:

1 Comment

speak up

Add your comment below, or trackback from your own site.
Subscribe to these comments.

Be nice. Keep it clean. Stay on topic. No spam.

You can use these tags:
<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

:

:


« Celebrity Style: Paula Patton, Sandra Oh, Ashley Olsen
» Celebrity/Fashion Insider Style: Sienna Miller, Amber Valleta