5. Louis Vuitton
After an uncomplicated (I say that pejoratively) showing in New York, Jacobs delivered a highly architectural collection for Louis Vuitton. It marked another season where the French house’s monolithic bureaucracy seemed to focus Jacob’s eye (even if the end result was ironically more Zaha Hadid, Chanel’s reported architect collaborator, than Jun Aoki). These were highly sculptural offerings, swirling and cocooning the body in synthetic-looking blues and pale pinks. Critics kvetch - and often righteously so – that Jacob’s mystique is all in the styling. So Fabrizio Vitti’s (sp?) vertiginous part heel-part platforms were particularly telling: bold clothes require equally bold footwear.
6. Prada
After a foray into shaggy chic, followed by filmy, Art Nouveau prints, fall was somewhat of a return to form for Miuccia Prada; the lace, the drab palette, the perverse undertone almost like Prada atavisms. The tension, however, was entirely new. As other designers rehashed hackneyed motifs – feminism vs. masculine, hard vs. soft - Miuccia explored less traversed dichotomies - culture dressing vs. fashion dressing, veiled vs. exposed. In the process, she reminded us why she’s fashion’s true alchemist, turning pablum (read: heavy ceremonial lace) into chocolate.
The shoes at Rodarte. Killer.
1-3: I totally agree
4-6: they all leave me transfixed
7-10: more MORE! I need more! perhaps you should consider 1-12.
i think rodarte is way overrated. (well, referring to rodarte as anything better than ‘The Definition and Epitome of Unspeakably Hideous’ would be overrating them.)