There’s a rewarding feeling that Ricardo Tisci is teetering on the cusp of the next echelon of his career. For fall, he delivered one of the most succinctly crafted and directional collections of the season. Consciously marrying his natural tangents into the dark side with the house’s history of frill, he swept the fashion collective into the hauntingly alluring web he weaves so well. And with Carine Roitfeld spotted trotting around Paris in one of the studded nautical jackets, it’s likely to be one tightly-paced, albeit more than willingly, ensnarement.
1. Prada
For a woman whose first language is not English, Miuccia’s ability to govern the season’s vernacular is rather remarkable. Repeat after me: shaggy chic. As the leader of the pack - once again - she swiftly, and always without cognizant dissonance, shifted our focus to texture rather than silhouette. Shaggy gillets came with wooly trousers. Popcorned nylon, ombre-dyed and suggesting a sweltering swamp under the night sky, was fused with Lucite heels. And after seasons of a brooding angst, the Prada woman lightens up, both literally - salmon paired with pale blue - and figuratively - buttons strategically placed upon supple leathers to mimic nipples. There’s a sense it is this same sense of humour with which she observes the rest of fashion setting foot ever so obediently.
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