I want more of this type of experimentation in menswear…silhouettes that look whole and purposeful but not traditional. I’m ready to see a f*cking Dior’s-new-look-inspired men’s coat, but since Mr. Pearl isn’t most designers’ target demographic, I’ll make do with this belted shape from Yurkievich (Below Left). Also, praise befall the lapel-less jacket (Below Right) for being wearable, minus one’s chest sticking out. This sort of venture can either end up innovative or buried in the yoox clearance section.

The one good thing about my delay in posting is that there are backstage pictures up now, too! I think that very smart casting is helping to make this aesthetic palatable, and Eric Sposito’s snaps for models.com (Below) perfectly highlight the mood of the collection.

Wait, what’s that I said about not looking clownlike? Ignore the hat I guess…just look at the face.

images: lanvinray via TFS, models.com

I wouldn’t change a single thing about this photograph (Above).

Bartos makes Jennifer Pugh (Above Left) look like a pastel portrait. The light play in this shoot, particularly in the black-and-whites like this one of Leah de Wavrin (Above Right) or my favorite of JP (Below) gives off a little Imogen Cunningham.

This (Above) is one of my favorite photos so far this year. JP can look pretty alien, and I like that this shoot brings out her unconventional beauty without overplaying that angle. I actually see hints of womanliness here, which, for this particular model, is quite astonishing.

The overall effect is both soft and austere, but I don’t think it’s at all contrived. I love it! What say you?

images: models.com

These Rick Owens boots (Below)? Look. At. The lines. I bet they’re comfortable too.

Their website deserves praise for being both dingy and sleek simultaneously. And judging by the evidence (Below), these qualities reflect the physical store’s interior as well.

Hmm…so if I think this through, the Rick Owens boots may be almost three times as expensive as the antique (white velvet!!) couch I bought today, but they’re also about $500-$1000 less than catching a roundtrip flight to Berlin this week. So- if I choose to do my traveling vicariously through the footwear, does that technically constitute a bargain?

images: Apartment, berlin.unlike

…and June’s Vogue Italia (Below).

It’s great to see Vogue(s) trying unpredictable concepts with Sessilee, whose subtlely increases as time goes on. She can wear anything, and change attitude with the scenery while still remaining distinctively herself. Looking forward to whatever she gets into next!

images: Sessilee’s blog

What is discreet about billowing Prada leather with a $3,875 price tag (Above Right)? I’m pretty sure they just liked the way “discreet topper” sounded, so they decided it f*ck all if it makes no sense whatsoever in context. I do like the Rodarte though (Above Left).

So wait, let me get this straight…red leather is more discreet than full grey monochrome, but covering up neck-to-toe (Above Left) is more daring than a down-there-neckline and up-there-slit (Above Right). What’s the point of having a theme when you don’t really, um, have a theme? Would my bespoke 24K gold leaf windbreaker be considered daring, or discreet? What about fishnet stockings knit from freeze-dried baby seal veins? Tell me, Anna!

And also, Anna, while I have you on the phone…I’m never, ever going to like this outfit (Above). Stop making me look at it! I cringed when it wore Leighton Meester to the Costume Institute Gala this year. It’s definitely the whimsical heel to ribbon tie to gold legging to lace capri overlay to brocade skirt to TURTLENECK aspect of it. I can’t picture a single woman looking natural and comfortable in this. I wish every look didn’t have to be by the same designer in full, which screams SALES SALES SALES $$$$$$!$!$!$!$! and not creativity and individuality.

Okay I’m done. Goodnight.

images: user.n. via TFS

Sagamori’s collection is an excellent example of this (shots Below).

Every single one of these looks shows a keen eye and talent, even before you learn that Sagimori is not even 25 years old yet. I particularly appreciate the short-short suit, something I would buy in a heartbeat. I’ve been sporting the no-pants look long before Lady Gaga came around, and it’s tastefully choquant when done right.

Interested in other designers who showed this past Tokyo Fashion Week? Check out Lessthan (girls) and Factotum (boys) for more occasion-amorphous ready-to-wear.

images: London Tokyo Style

I know a lot of people are bored with the white-background schtick that MaxMara has favored in the past; personally, I’ve always liked their campaigns but found them sometimes incongruous with the impression you get of their clothes by going into one of their stores. Perhaps this is another by-product of the recession? Brands’ advertisements staying more true to their target sales demographic, instead of trying to push boundaries and make high art?

Whether or not you love the campaign, I think affluent, conservative-but-fashionable working women and jet-set wives alike will find this aesthetic relatable. And for MaxMara’s sake, buyable….

images: JSYK via TFS

Personally, I think she looks like an exact cross between Abbey Lee Kershaw (Below Left) and Lara Stone (Below Right).

What’s your opinion on Georgia May; does she have long-term model potential? She’s obviously striking. I wonder if she’ll take on sort of a Daisy Lowe role, booking mostly shoots where the model plays herself instead of undergoing a complete transformation. Her appearance in Love magazine (where the top right shot was snagged from) might indicate more interest to come…maybe we’ll get to see her show off some versatility soon?

Or how about these three in a campaign together? Not so sure Georgia could hold her own against Ms. Abbey and La Lara, but with the right concept, I’d sure like to see her try.

images: cake_batter, childkid, luxiedream via TFS; Matt Irwin’s blog

I love Anja Rubik (Above Left)! I’ll get sh*t for it too, since she’s such a skinny mini. What a great example of wearing something simple in a stature-flattering silhouette, with sleek accessories and great skin and hair. What’s to hate on? I also applaud Fabiola Beracasa (Above Right) for choosing natural makeup that makes her dramatic silhouette look fresh rather than harsh.

Julia Restoin-Roitfeld (Above Left with equally chic Sophia Hesketh) made a phenomenal choice in this black structured mini. Its perfect shape, along with the lack of color, draws the eye not to the dress but to the body and the wearer. Cynthia Rowley (Above Right) just looks so YOUNG! And not young as in tweaked, tucked and youth-obsessed; young as in vivacious, confident, and stylish. My hat is off to her.

Now, for the boys…milliner extraordinaire Albertus Swanepoel (Above Left) and his lovely details smack of subtle eccentricity, while Jeff Halmos (Above Right with Sam Shipley) is delighting me with his pant length and bow tie.

Patrik Ervell (Above Left) either looks smoking hot, creepy, or both. My level of indecision means both. The shoes Philip Lim (Above Right) is wearing work well, but his beautiful date Georgie Baudel and her tassel purse REALLY work!

images: Style.com

Perhaps my favorite Girbaud moment, outside of purchasing a new piece of course, is their “Last Supper” billboard from 2005 (Below). With its reversal of gender from da Vinci’s original (Bottom), it sent the catholic church into a predictable tantrum. The brand claimed that the ad celebrated women, but I see no need to justify the intent. It’s thought-provoking and that should be enough.

I have built up quite the Girbaud wardrobe in the five or so years I’ve been a fan, including an $1800 tailored winter jacket that I got for $600 which was heartwrenchingly stolen from a coat check. I guess I can’t blame the **** (interpret as you will) who ran off with such a perfect coat, but still…get your own!

images: WWD, adsoftheworld.com, wikipedia