F/W 2008 Runways Shows, Runway Shows and Reviews

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2007/2008


If slow and steady wins the race, then place all your bets on Raf Simons. For the fall collection at Jil Sander, Simons delivered an evolutionary collection that combined the grace of a hypothetical neo-ballerina with the architectural power of a metropolitan landscape.

For the suiting, the usual meat and potatoes of a Sander collection, he kept the pants long and lean, but updated the jackets with cinched-in waists, slightly flaring at the hips, and a shorter, marginally wider lapel. There’s no doubt that any woman with a sizable bank account thinks of Jil Sander as the go-to spot for a well-cut suit, but I wish he would have pushed it farther. A great suit is a great suit, but it need not be the same suit.

It was with the dresses, however, that Simons consciously moved things forward. There were with asymmetrical seamed necklines, Grecian-like draping that transformed Bruna Tenorio into a minimalist’s superhero wet dream, and long-sleeved numbers ruched to perfection - a little interest at the neck, softly intensified through the waist to hide all that not so good stuff.

But, like last season, the greatest promise comes from the accessories. The standout was a pair of black platforms with ballerina-like crisscrossings wrapping the ankle. If anything, it seemed to hint at a lightness beneath the swallowing charcoal capes. Maybe event amongst the veracity that is Jil Sander, dancing through life isn’t solely for the idealists?

Credit Photos: Style.com

02.20.07 | adrian


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