Adrian's Rants

Marc Jacobs: Fashion Deity?


Marc Jacobs is a genius. To quote the previous phrase would be prove to be both tedious and superfluous. While it may have very well been Kalman Ruttenstein, Bloomingdale’s senior Vice President of fashion direction, who first, at least so publicly, uttered the abovementioned, it has evolved into a statement void of the requirement of citation. There are founded declarations and then there are universal laws; Pi is 3.14159, the earth is an oblate spheroid, and Marc Jacobs can do no wrong.
Designer or Deity?
It is a status that can only be described as transcendent - absent of dent-making criticsim, if not caused by, a similar lack of thorough objectivity. Miuccia has it, Consuelo almost has it. It is a power that brings automatic influence, no matter how solitary, off-beat, hackneyed the vision may be. Sally Singer and Mark Holgate captured it best in their “The Magnificent Seven” article, a look at the 7 international designers dictating modern fashion. Included were: Elbaz, Ghesquiere, Jacobs, Pilati, Prada, Rodriguez, and Theyskens.

But what is it exactly that transforms these designers into relative fashion deities, shifting, if not categorically reversing, the fashion trajectory at their own whims? After all, who knows where we might have ended up had it not been for Pilati’s scalloped tulip, the little-skirt-that-could?

But where do we begin? Is it time? A fashion elevation, of sorts, simply for paying one’s dues? It’s unlikely. Pilati for YSL has been able to secure such an eminence in only 5 seasons, whereas Lacroix, for the most part, seems to be lacking a similar consensus.
Is it talent? Once again, I would argue Christopher Bailey is as talented as some of those suggested by Singer and Holgate. Next question. Then surely it must be an uncanny ability to sense the mood of the moment, to semalessley translate political frustration into a breathtaking plisse silk pantsuit? Frankly, with the extent of individualism exhibited between the group of seven, sensing “a” mood would suggest - no require - us being a heavily-medicated, bi-polar society. Let’s not go there.
To pinpoint the why proves to be as difficult as deciphering the influence of a Prada show. It seems to be a matter of, yes, timing - the only logical explanation for the about face reaction to Elbaz at Lanvin versus his stint at YSL - but also a sense of magic (how charmingly whimsical), intellectualism, and dare I say it - inclusivity. In an industry that prides itself on standing out, it’s remarkable to observe the hoof-like behaviour of Miu Miu-adorned feet.
But, by golly, if Marc Jacobs’ fall collection wasn’t manifested brilliance, then strip me of my Lanvin and sell my Dior Hommes.

02.14.07 | adrian


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